Walks

THE TEMPLE TOUR

Exquisite workmanship on the pillars of this temple and woodcarvings (recently coated with liberal layers of oil enamel) depict the Shakti cult. Admire the motifs that represent the nine incarnations of Lord Vishnu. The original idol was brought from the village of Verne, now an industrial estate in modern Goa.

Goa is said to have been created from the sea by lord Parashuram, the axe-wielding sixth incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Lord Parashuram is supposed to have destroyed all the warriors Kshatriyas, in his kingdom over a quarrel involving a divine cow. To compensate for these sins, the war-like god is said to have offered several sacramental fires and devotions for which ten Brahmins travelled to Goa from the North. They say that of the original ten Brahmins, two had brought a Shiva linga with them that they installed at the Mangirish or Mangueshi temple. The third Brahmin, Kaushik, settled in Kurdalipur, bringing with him the deity Shantadurga in her aspect of The Peaceful One. These two deities, therefore, form the nucleus around which a number of deities revolved. A new pattern of worship evolved from this legend and moulded the culture of the Konkan Coast. The story goes that the lower caste Mahar community demolished their own huts to house the deity and that is why members of this community were permitted to go right inside the temple in prepetuity.

The Mangueshi Temple at Priol houses the idol of Lord Shiva’s consort Parvati. The legend associated with this installation begs telling. They say that Lord Shiva lost a game of dice to Parvati and left for the Himalayas in a tantrum. An anguished Parvati began to look for her Lord hut could not find him. Finally, Lord Shiva came to the hills of Goa and appeared before his wife in the form of a tiger. Not recognizing her husband in this form, she let out a cry, "O mann girish! O Lord of the hills!" Lord Shiva was pleased with this utterance and presented himself in was decided that they would both be worshipped in a temple named Mangirish or Mangueshi to commemorate the event.

The temple that you see today was constructed under the patronage of Shahu Raje of Satara in Maharashtra in 1738. Its fluted columns, cast-iron railings, crystal chandeliers, foiled arches and floral patterned doorways in pure silver, speak of a period in Goa's history when Portuguese power was at a decline. The original temple had been located in the village of Kushtasthali or Curtorim by the side of the river Agnashini or Zuari. It was brought to Priol in 1560, restored in 1894 and richly endowed with a gold spire between 1971-73. It is believed that as the persecuted Brabmins crossed the river in the dead of night, some fisherfolk and tribals assisted them. Perhaps one of their headmen was named Vithal Rakhumai. To honour this contribution, an image of Vithal Rakhumai is seared alongside the image of Lord Shiva. To complete the honour, this image is taken each year by the temple priest for a ritual bath in the temple tank.
Another story associated with the temple is the story of Ramchandra Baba, a poor village clerk who was on his way to seek his fortunes in the neighbouring Satara region. When he went to the temple priests to request them to perform the rudra abhishekha, a rite meant to bring in good fortune, they refused, as he did not have more than four annas (25 paise) to pay for the ritual.
Crestfallen, he buried the coins at the foot of the tulsi vrindavan in the temple courtyard and took leave of the Lord. He returned years later, a wealthy and influential administrator. This time the priests of the temple fawned on him, begging him to sponsor the ceremony. Ramchandra Baba is said to have dug up the coins from under the sacred basil and then declare that from henceforth no more than four annas would be charged for this particular ritual. The rule is in practice to this day.
Enjoy a trail up to the shops that sell temple souvenirs. The temple tank and the ladies who sell flowers and offerings at the temple steps make for ideal photo opportunities. It is the rolling hills of Ponda, however, that will finally stay in your mind's eye forever.


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